In a burst of spontaneity, we decided to do a dinner and wine evening last night, and as usual, it was lots of fun. The theme of the night was Italian wines (Brunello, Barolo...), so I decided to cook some nicely, but subtly flavored food.
With Appetizers
- 1999 Launois Pere et Fils Champagne "Cuvée Reserve" Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne
As usual, this is a super reliable champagne that is lovely by virtue of its freshness, apple peel notes, and yeastiness. I seem not to be able to go wrong with this producer.
With First Course
Porcini Mushroom Risotto
- 1999 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
What can I say? Bruno Giacosa is a genius. This wine was very interesting in so many ways...Opened a few hours before consumption and audouzed in the cellar. Color was looking like that of a much older wine with definite rustiness and orange bricking. The nose was phenomenal and showed some very nice red to black fruit with loads of tobacco and leather. Texture was good and silky. Surprisingly, the finish was pretty tannic, and gave the impression that the wine was much younger than it looked. - 1997 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Wow. The Clerico was unbelievably backward considering it is 10 years old. Dark, dark color and soaring nose of black fruit, tar, tobacco, and a hint of wood and a floral component. Quite tannic on the palate, but very balanced. Finishes well, and for me, it edged out the Giacosa. Different style than the Giacosa though...very bold Barolo, where the Giacosa was a very finesse driven Barbaresco. I certainly think this will need many more years to show its best (unlike the Giacosa) and should be given at least 5 years. Maybe our bottle was particularly backward?
With Second Course
Roasted beef short-ribs with spinach and gratin dauphinois
- 1999 Fattoria La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
This, too was opened a few hours in advance and audouzed. Completely ready to drink and no hard edges. Has a great nose and solid palate that screams of plum, black berries, leather, and tobacco. Very velvety texture and great juicy, sappy finish. This is drinking so well now, I am having a hard time thinking this will improve much in the next few years...I'll begin to drink down my small stash over the next 3-5 years. - 2001 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Popped and poured. Nose was barely perceptible and it showed similarly closed on the palate. Fruit seemed light-weight, and oak was sticking through just a bit. Very enjoyable wine, but I'm not sure if this is in an awkward phase or if it is just short of very good. To be re-tasted at some point. - 2001 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Opened a few hours prior to consumption. I liked this quite a bit. Although more in the modern camp of Brunello with some pretty big tannins, black fruit, and high glycerin, this still manages to come off as Brunello and with great balance so as to drink great with food. I think this wine has the longest ageing potential of the ones we tasted. Clearly a very good wine with lots of upside. If I were to compare this with Bordeaux, I think this is not unlike Monbousquet (instead of a traditional producer like Magdelaine).
With Dessert
Roasted peaches with nuts
- 2000 Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos - Hungary, Hegyalja, Tokaji
Very nice dessert wine to finish off the evening. I think this has a little more acidity and zip than I am used to from Sauternes. Very nice and I may get a few of this.
It always stuns me how well Italian wines do with food. Last night, we ate over the course of a few hours and had wine, but the alcohol in the wines is low enough to allow you to not have to spit, and enjoy the food and wine instead for the pairing that they are. Always amazes me...
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