I liked the write-ups, though, so I contacted them and asked whether I could buy some of their wine. I did get on the mailing list and the then newly formed list of designates. When I first tasted the 2002 Sonoma Coast, I was blown away. I thought then (as I do now) that the wine was stupendously good. I also got to taste in person with Michael that same year at their (then under construction) facility and loved the other wines, especially the 2002 Cohn and Kanzler.
With the 2003 vintage, I think the wines were very difficult to evaluate early on because of the tannic nature of the vintage, so I have barely tasted any of my 2003s. When I first tasted the 2003s in late 2005, I was not a fan, but I have liked the wines at more recent tastings better with one exception: the 2003 4-Barrel is showing strange these days...less in balance and the alcohol sticks out more than I'd like to see. I don't think these wines are for Burgundy afficionados, but I do think that a broad audience would like these wines.
The 2004s apellation wines saw a return to a softer style of Pinot that reminded me greatly of the 2002s that I have been so fond of. But the wines were also born of yet another hot vintage and for the first time, I thought the candied fruit aspect that can often be found was nearing the threshold of being over-the-top. These wines will probably be preferred by friends of the big style of Pinot.
With 2005 being reported as a generally cooler and lower alcohol vintage, my hope was that the KB line-up would go back to the 2002 style of less extraction, more finesse, while showing lower alcohol than the recent vintages. Unfortunately, based on my last tasting note, this seems not to have happened. 2005 seems like it continues the style of the 2004s except with some bigger tannin structure. Lovers of the big Pinots will rejoice to drink these wines.
I believe that KB's wines have been progressively getting fruit-forward (but I realize this is my personal taste, so I may be wrong for your palate), so I have found bottles I've tried from recent vintages less appealing, although I have liked them when I've been in the mood for the specific style. I do think that the wines are made textbook and that KB's dedication to deliver the best wine from the best fruit is impressive. Fans of big-style Pinot are going to love their wines and in that category, I don't think there's a better winery in the US.
What are your thoughts on Kosta Browne?
0 comments:
Post a Comment