2002 Walter Hansel Pinot Noir "The South Slope" (USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley)


Popped and poured right after I opened the bottle two days ago. Completely undrinkable because there was an incredibly stemmy, green taste to the wine. I've often noticed this in Stephen's 2002s. I also know that if I wait and properly decant for a few hours, this always blows off. Tonight, I revisited the wine after resting for 2 days, and sure enough, with some air, the stemminess is nearly gone. The wine keeps going through so many phases though, that I wonder if it has multiple personality disorder. Started out dark fruited and with classic cola and RRV dirt. Then, it transformed into a much more burgundy-like version with Volnay-like characteristics. Now, it has changed back to a theoretical hybrid between Pommard and RRV with tannin rusticity and leafiness I associate with Pommard and plum fruit and earthiness that I associate with RRV. The only commonality to this point has been the racy acidity and freshness of the wine. Will undoubtedly keep changing for hours to come and I think that this particular wine has (dare I say it) at least 5 more years to get to its optimal drinking window and at least another 5 years beyond that to perform at plateau. This stuff is showing so young, it's scary. Textbook example of an RRV Pinot that can age...for a long time.

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