1999 Sportoletti Villa Fidelia Umbria IGT (Italy, Umbria, Umbria IGT)

Solid wine. Even at age 9, it's rich, ripe, big, fresh, and long. Reminds me a whole lot of a very classy and well made California Cab. That said, it lacks a little typicity for me. If I drank it blind, I'd probably like it a touch better because I don't have any expectation. Very good and can cellar for at least 5 more years before beginning to decline.

THREE VALUE ITALIANS - (3/10/2008)

A few weeks ago, I saw these three wines and chose to find myself an inexpensive go-to red. Tonight, I got to try the three wines head-to-head.

• 2004 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico
  90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and Colorino. Aged 20 months in used oak barriques. Opened last night and re-corked and re-cellared. Cherry juice-like color that's completely translucent yet dark. Nose is dusty, earthy, with cherry, plum, bitter chocolate and some oak. Big footprint on the palate with loads of sour cherry and earth. Has good sweetness of fruit while being completely dry, and ample acidity. Dark chocolate on the finish with a hint of bitterness. Very structured wine that will probably need a few years to fully integrate the structure, acid, and oak. Right now, not particularly enjoyable to drink, but it shows great promise, I believe. Clearly a wine whose price-point belies its requirement for at least 3 more years of bottle age.


• 2005 La Massa Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
  60% Sangiovese, 35% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.Opened last night and re-corked and re-cellared. Very dark color with ruby at the rim. Nose is blackberry and balsamico with a good dose of oak and a certain green herbaceousness (but not in a bad way). Fresh on the palate with zingy blackberries and blackcurrant and some dusty mushroom. Fruit is extremely pure, plush and ripe. Finishes well, but for me, the oak is sticking out just a tad. Ready to drink now with a vigorous decant or should hold for at least 5 years (although I'm not sure if it'll really improve vs merely mellow out). May buy again, but in small quantities. Just not distinctive enough for me to go crazy over it.


• 2004 Scacciadiavoli Sangiovese Montefalco Rosso - Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Rosso
  60% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot and a few other red varietals. Fermented in stainless steel and aged for one year in large Salvonian oak foudres. Opened last night and re-corked and re-cellared. Dark garnet to ruby opaque color. Nose is blackberry and blackcurrant with leather and gamyness. Fresh berry fruit and garbed leather along with some mossy tree bark on the palate. Super pure fruit. Fresh, racy finish with some hints of fresh herbs. Finishes outstandingly with no hard edges. I think this can go for years while improving, but it drinks really nicely right now. Has a little bit of Northern Rhone beef blood and meat character. Love this wine and what a QPR. My favorite of the three wines. Would buy again.

The Scacciadiavoli was my favorite and I am looking forward to exporing more Montefalco wines.

2005 Azienda Agricola Montevertine Pian del Ciampolo Toscana IGT (Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT)

Has been open and corked in the cellar for a day. Completely translucent garnet red/orange hue color. Nose of spice, balsamico, dried herbs, rose petal and plum. More substantial on the palate than the color or nose would give away. Good plum and cherry on the palate with some tobacco and leather. This is a really light bodied wine that effectively has the body and funk of Barbaresco combined with the roundness of Tuscan Sangiovese. Finish is surprisingly long. I think to fully appreciate this wine, you can't expect to drink "classically styled" Tuscan wine (like Brunello or Super Tuscans), but you have to have an open mind as to what Tuscan wine can be if its much different from the norm. This also means that the food pairings will need to be different in my opinion for this wine to work well. I imagine that rich meats like steak or game with rich sauce would clash, while simple pasta with butter and sage, or whole roasted duck or chicken ought to be a good match for example. Either way, I imagine that this isn't for everyone, but it reminds me a little of Chateau Simone in Provence in terms of style. Will be interesting to see if age will add some extra dimensions to this wine...I lack the requisite experience to project what age may do.