2001 Vietti Barolo Castiglione (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

After the epic fail of the 2003 Remizieres Crozes, I decided to open this up. It isn't exactly a mind blowing wine. Certainly good and pleasant. Has typicity. Shows nice red fruit, roses, earth and spice. Very mellow and nice silky texture. Medium finish rounds this one out. Good value at the sub-$30 price tag I acquired it at many years ago, but I don't think it's worth any more than that now. Drinking at peak right now and I don't think it'll get materially better. The earliest maturing wine in the Vietti Barolo portfolio by a long-shot. 

2004 Mauro Veglio Barolo Arborina (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

It's official. I like Veglio's 2004 Arborina much better than his 2004 Castelletto. Everything I didn't like about the Castelletto, this Arborina succeeds in. No hint of barrique treatment, no massive extraction, and no flabbiness. This wine is really very nice. It shows restraint, finesse and precision. Red berries, flowers, and menthol on the palate and a killer autumnal/leafy/earthy nose. Wonderful finish and quite tannic. Great intensity of flavor and a very subtle sweetness of the fruit on the finish. This is one that every lover of traditionally styled Barolo should load up on. 

2004 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Interestingly, this has changed since I last had it a year ago. The wine has gotten leaner, and the oak has mellowed out some, but there's still a lot of fruit and extraction. It also still seems a little unfocused and a tad too easygoing. That said, I am beginning to see some promise here with some more complexity developing. Leather, earth, and hints of wet leaves...This was actually fun to drink and went well with food. I still would not recommend to anyone to run out to buy it, but if you can pick it up pretty inexpensively, it is worth a try.

2001 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

My third and last bottle of this. Unfortunately, not much has changed since the last bottle. When I first opened this, there is no way I would have guessed this as Barolo in a blind tasting. It was unbelievably thick, jammy, high-glycerin, and loaded with black fruit. It really reminded more of California Zinfandel than Nebbiolo. With some air, the wine's extremes dialed back towards the middle, and this got drinkable, but I never really loved any part of this bottle, which I consumed and tasted over the course of three nights. This is my first and only experience with Einaudi, and based on this experience, I would put Einaudi in the category of producers I would never purchase from again. Not terrible, but this isn't what great Barolo is all about in my opinion.

1996 Prunotto Barolo Bussia (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Great bottle of wine. Started out a little rough, but it settled into a great place with 30 minutes of air. Brick red color and still a youthful Barolo that shows abundant tannins, and very pretty floral, tar, leather, and forest floor. Lovely plum and red berry fruit with silky texture. On the traditional side of the winemaking spectrum, but not so much so that the fruit would be lean. I wish I had more of this.

2004 Renato Corino Barolo Vigneto Rocche (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

I brought this to dinner at Asti on Saturday night. Phenomenal wine. Clearly a Barolo and on the more traditional side. Still young and with plenty of fruit, yet it shows nice fruit and balance. Medium bodied and red fruited with spice and rose petals. Glad to have two more.

October 2009 Wine Salon

The usual crowd gathered chez Brian's on October 18 to explore Italian wines with an emphasis on Piedmont. Many wines posted and the opinions seemed to be a lot more varied than usual. Of course, the food was sensational as always. The liver duck mousse in particular was so good, I can practically still taste it. Here are the wines. I kept the notes very short.

Palate Whetter

• 2006 J. Hofstätter Pinot Nero Alto Adige - Südtirol Meczan - Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Alto Adige, Alto Adige - Südtirol
  Simple, earthy, funky, sour cherry, light bodied, decent cheap quaffer

Palate Bruiser

• 2000 Mastroberardino Irpinia Naturalis Historia - Italy, Campania, Irpinia
  Big, muscular, tannic, dark chocolate, coffee, blackberry, leather, very multifaceted, very good

Interesting Barbera

• 2003 Elio Altare Langhe Barbera Vigna Larigi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
  100% Barbera, very sweet, very modern, candied, cherries, too much oak, not a fan

Barbarescos

• 1996 Poderi Colla Barbaresco Roncaglie - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  Fresh, earthy, light-medium body, mushrooms, autumnal, tannic, focused


• 1999 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia Barbaresco Sori Paitin - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  Tannic, more modern style, slightly raisiny, slightly stewy, muddled


• 2003 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Vigneto Brich Ronchi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  Most tannic of trio, mushrooms, rose petals, plum, baking soda, dark, almost Barolo-like in style

Barolos

• 2001 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Modern style, wood, tar, roasted coffee, plum, dark berry, still very primary


• 2001 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Cannubi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Primary, Black and blue berries, licorice, roses, traditional style. Very good.


• 2001 Vigna Rionda - Massolino Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Fresh, seems high alc, thin fruit, better on its own than with food

Old Barolo

• 1978 Pio Cesare Barolo Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
  Lovely palate. Wet autumn leaves, forest floor, mushrooms, still amazingly vibrant fruit, perfect balance, nose was off, told that smell dissipated.

Thanks to Brian and all those who generously brought food. I unfortunately missed the flight with old Gattinara's (1965 and 1968), but there's always a next time.

2003 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco)

Popped and poured. Very dark ruby red color at the moment, but still translucent. Nose shows leafy tobacco, blackberry, plum, and a little earth and barrique. On the palate, this is intense with a lot of berry fruit and some mighty tannins. Finish solid. It's a really nice wine, but still incredibly primary. I'll let my remaining bottle sleep for another 5-10 years.

2000 Vietti Barolo Brunate (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Heaven in a bottle. I took this to a restaurant, and the waitress who opened the wine immediately said that it 'smelled so amazing'. On the young side, still, but what a great wine. Floral and pretty with violets and roses, earth, a touch of balsamico perfume. Meaty and with plum and cherry fruit that just doesn't quit. I was trying to figure out whether it was a modern or traditional style of Barolo, and I decided it was right in the middle. Nice fruit, but still restrained and finesse driven. This one has it all. Great freshness, pretty fruit, long finish, solid structure, a nose to die for, and plenty of aging potential. If you own some of these, you'll be happy when you decide to open one.

2004 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Seems like a more modern/international style of Barolo. Big upfront plum and blackberry fruit. Tar, some tobacco, and more dark fruit. Explosive and surprisingly rich on the palate. As the wine comes up to room temperature, the oak treatment becomes more evident. Sweet and ripe tannins, but this remains dry and doesn't show any overt sweetness or jamminess. Overall, this is good, but I am unsure how it will age. Seems a little low on acidity to make old bones, but I have 5 left, so I'll keep trying one every year or two.

2003 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

This wine was definitely disappointing. Maybe my hopes were too high. When I first opened this, it was unusually thick and dark for a Barolo. With air, it drifted into red fruit territory and the acid came out better. However, through the course of the first evening, the wine kept changing constantly. At times it seemed very simple and flat, at other times it seemed tannic and mute, and at times it seemed to be very good. After another 2 days in the cellar, the wine had stabilized somewhat. It turned out more typical of Barolo in the sense that the color was carmine red with some orange highlights. Nose was fairly typical with some leafiness, and the palate was nicely balanced with good, silky texture. It wasn't very complex however, and I still consider this wine a disappointment. Lacks excitement and the wow factor.

2003 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

This wine is incredible. Light, ruby red color. The nose just leaps out of the glass with red berries, earth, peet moss, autumnal leaves and tar. Smells exactly like some of the Giacosas I've had the good fortune to taste. It's light on its feet and dances across the palate effortlessly with amazing purity of fruit, silky texture, and gripping tannins. Finishes strong. This is one of the best young Barolos I've ever tasted and I can only wager a guess as to just how great this will be in another 10+ years. This is a very traditional Barolo, and I don't know how Barolo can get a whole lot better than this. A wine to buy by the case.

2005 Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo Perbacco (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC)

Pretty wine and good wine. Yet not mind blowing or near as good as Vietti's Barolos. True to its varietal characteristics, one can taste the tar, rose petals, floral elements, and high acidity and tannins, while staying light on its feet. Speaks of its place of origin and is a great food companion. By itself, the wine is less exciting and intellectual. That being said, this will serve its purpose well to accompany an occasional weekday dinner for the next few years. Pork, chicken, and veal should make for particularly good food matches.

Birthday Dinner Chez Pelz

Last night, our friends convened at our house to celebrate the birthdays of our friend Lauryl and myself. For the occasion, the food was as follows:

Appetizer: Melted brie with home-made crispy hazelnut bread and red pepper jam (prepared by Shannon)

Entree: Whole bone-in pork loin chop with braised kale and porcini risotto (prepared by yours truly)

Dessert: Apple/Almond Gratin (prepared by Lauryl)

I actually had made a cranberry/apple chutney well in advance, but I forgot to serve it with all the hustle in the kitchen....I guess we'll save it for Thanksgiving.

With Appetizer:

• 1998 Deutz Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne
  Served last night with appetizers. Very tasty and those familiar brioche and yeasty flavors I love in BdB. Bead and mousse were a little more coarse than I expected, but overall, this was excellent.

With Entree

• 2004 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Olivets - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  I continue to enjoy the 2004 CdPs. This wine was very clearly a CdP with red fruit, red licorice, some olive tapenade and garrigue. This is as typical and traditional a CdP as I have tasted in a while. Very mellow already and ready to drink without further cellaring. I liked this a lot.


• 1982 Château de Sales - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
  I love mature Bordeaux. This bottle had been lovingly stored as it was in great condition. Red fruit, plum and tobacco on the nose had me guessing left bank Bordeaux from 78/79, but alas I was wrong. Either way, this was just fantastic and kept unwinding throughout the evening. Very smooth texture and textbook finish with tertiary flavors dominating. Impressive showing.


• 2005 Bosquet des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes (Chantemerle) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  Another CdP. Although I recognized this as a CdP, it was in a different style from the Sabon. Much bigger and more fruit forward, and with a much darker fruit profile, this nevertheless had the elements that I associate with CdP...garrigue, olive tapenade, almost slightly oily texture, truffle/earth and black licorce. Finishes strong. Seems like it would have a fairly good size Mourvedre and Syrah component. This is a candidate for extended cellaring in my opinion, and a wine I am glad to own some of.


• 2004 Icardi Langhe Nebbiolo Surisjvan - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
  I pegged this correctly as being from Italy, specifically Piedmont. I incorrectly thought it was a Barbera. Either way, it had the typical acid and funk profile I love in Piedmont wines. Great balance and dark fruit with floral undertones. Finished well. I rather liked this a lot.


• 1995 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  Great bottle. Every time I drink this '95, it reminds me how much better it is than its '94 counterpart. Definitely still young with good structure, but it's beginning to get mellow and it shows some secondary flavors of earthiness and leafiness. Some tobacco and black currant with a touch of earth and truffle. Everything is here and all with great balance and class. A reminder why I like Bordeaux even if I don't currently drink very much of it.


• 2001 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova - Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
  Decanted for 7 hours. Dark, almost black color. Nose is intense with black fruit, leather, and some earthiness and cedar. Incredibly velvety texture and monster finish. As much fruit and structure as there is in this wine, there's also plenty of acidity to balance the wine out. It's definitely balanced impeccably. For lovers of traditional Brunello, this may be a disappointment as it is made in a modern style, but to drink with food, it was very good. That being said, to me, I align more with Galloni's assessment than Suckling's.


• 1999 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve le Clos du Caillou - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  And yet another CdP. Again, I guessed this as CdP because of the garrigue, licorice, creosote, and earth/truffle. A big, dark, brooding CdP, that I would guess has significant Mourvedre and Syrah precentages in the blend. Finishes very strong, and it's a candidate for long term cellaring as well. Nowhere near sa approachable as many other 2004s I have had.

With Dessert

• 1998 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
  Very good. Golden color. Clean, focused honey and pear with some honeysuckle. Good companion to the apple gratin dessert.

Wines in Las Vegas (10/12/08)

Was in Las Vegas for a convention and had the good fortune of being able to try some wines during a business dinner at Craftsteak in the MGM Grand.

• 2000 Domaine de la Vougeraie Pommard Les Petits Noizons - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
  Great bottle of wine and my favorite wine of the evening by only a little over the 2000 Produttori Ovello. Just amazing silky texture and a captivating nose of earth, leaves, mushrooms, and plum. Good fruit on the midpalate, but the most remarkable characteristic of this wine was that it came across as very refined and elegant despite its obvious structure and aging potential. Finish went on for quite some time. Should have ordered another bottle of this.


• 2000 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Ovello - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
  Second bottle of the evening, and another winner. Much different from other 2000 Barbarescos I've had thus far. Very tight right out of the bottle, and although it opened somewhat, this never fully unraveled and revealed the plush nature of the fruit I was expecting. I'm hoping it isn't shut down, because if it isn't, this reminds me more of a typical 2001 and it would be right in my wheelhouse. Funky nose and dark color with no bricking. All tar, roses, and red and black fruit with a soaring finish and some lovely acidity that made my New York Strip steak even more enjoyable than it was by itself. Difficult to imagine how one could have too many of these. Only deduction...wasn't quite as silky in texture as the Vougeraie, but I think the tannins will soften with time to take care of that.


• 2004 Paradigm Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
  Last wine of the night, and although I am generally not a fan of California Cab, Paradigm continues to impress me. Just like prior vintages, this showed clearly ripe fruit, but it never crossed the line to fruity and cough syrup. On the contrary, it was balanced, with good acidity and some of that hallmark Rutherford dustiness. Velvety texture with some chocolate on the finish was great. I can see myself buying this.

2001 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Popped and poured and followed over a number of hours. Smells very woodsy and oaky. On the palate, good cherry, vanilla, spice, and menthol. Has some classic Nebbiolo typicity with tar and floral components. Tannins are remarkably subtle and fine grained. I'd say this is good, but not great, and I'm definitely worried about whether the oak will ever fully integrate. Probably a more modern Barolo that I was having trouble with. Outstanding freshness though, and certainly not boring.

2001 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Pora (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco)

Bottle was opened, re-corked and kept in the cellar for a whole day. Dark garnet red, translucent color. Plum, cherry, raspberry, and mandarin orange zest aromas with tar, licorice, and earth. Incredibly sweet fruit on the palate wrapped in a sturdy structure of tannins and acidity. Hints of truffle and earthiness on the long finish, which just keeps going and going. Very burly style of Barbaresco, but tons of fun. Can be drunk now, but will need 3-5 hours of decanting. Realistically, this shouldn't be touched for another 5 years in my opinion for the tannins to soften. I really enjoyed this and I believe it has great potential. Considering the going price of roughly $45, this is a good value.

1995 Marchesi di Barolo Barolo Riserva (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

Very nice bottle of wine with tons of tar, blackberry, tobacco, and earth. Very tannic, very structured, and already ridiculous amounts of sediment. Seems like this will need years to shed its tannins. Fruit is good, but by no means overdone. Solid bottle.

1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Langhe Quartetto (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC)

After a couple of less than outstanding wines, this one made it all worthwhile. A blend of Nebbiolo, Cabernet, Merlot, and Barbera, this is a very dark garnet color with a knock-out aromas of earth, truffle, leather, tobacco, plum, and red fruit. Nice and silky texture and great finish. Drank fantastic alongside homemade pizza with fresh basil, mozzarella, and salami, as well as Arugula salad with manchego shavings. Great food wine. Tannins are soft and this is definitely approachable right now without any decanting.