Showing posts with label Northern Rhone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Northern Rhone. Show all posts

Dinner Chez Shannon and David

Had dinner at Shannon and David's last night. Appetizers were Asian beef wrapped in Shizo and Radicchio, Baked Clams Portugaise, Tuna Tartare, and Parma Ham Antipasto. For the main course, Shannon and David prepared grille Tri-tip, roasted potatoes and carrots, and grilled yellow Squash. For dessert, there were Madelaines and strawberries in whipped cream. Fantastic food. Now the wines.
The Bubbles:
  • 2000 Philipponnat Champagne Cuvée "1522" Grand Cru - France, Champagne

    This showed great last night with the various appetizers. I don't know that this is an intellectual Champagne, but it sure is a fun one. Imminently drinkable with a very fine, delicate mousse, toasty and citrus flavors with a medium length finish. It comes across as a serious Champagne though and nicely walks the line between opulence and finesse.
  • N.V. Vilmart Champagne Rosé Rubis - France, Champagne

    After the more feminine Philipponnat, this Champagne roared over the palate with powerful strawberry and raspberry flavors. Long finish and lots of life ahead in this wine. Very nice, and certainly a good match for the heartier appetizers last night. Could be a good match for roast meat without problems.
The Reds:
  • 2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Upon opening, this wine was surprisingly dark and opaque. Unfortunately, it was also completely shut down. Multiple decants and hours of aeration ended up yielding a really stunning wine. Purchased at release from a reputable merchant and cellared perfectly since, this is very very young. Tremendous nose of red fruit and black olive tapenade. On the palate, there's plenty of blackberry and red fruit with stern tannins and a nice dose of earth, leather, and spice. The tell-tale bacon fat that this bottling is famous for isn't really showing yet. Too young for that to be front an center. That said, this is a terrific bottle of wine that has 10 more years before it's really ready and another decade or even two of life left. Very impressive wine.
  • 1998 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Just like the Guigal Brune at Blonde, this came out of the bottle completely closed. I would actually describe the wine at first taste as "unyielding", "hard as nails", "massively tannic". and black as night. I purchased this bottle at Chateau Troplong in St. Emilion, I transported it home in the OWC and stored it at 55 degrees since. I was expecting it to need some decanting to be in the window, but even hours of aeration and multiple decants couldn't produce what I was looking for in the end. I will say that this still drank nicely. It had a great degree of typicity, showed of a really nice nose towards the end of the evening, and it was a great match for the grilled steak. It just never showed the sweetness of the fruit and voluptuousness that Troplong Mondot can show when it is singing. Based on my tasting of this bottle, I would say that my remaining bottle is at least 10 years away from being in the earliest part of its drinking window and that it should last another decade or two past that without any problem. This wine is made in an old-school, uncompromising fashion. I will enjoy this one on my 50th birthday.
  • 1998 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore

    Very impressive wine. It's a hypothetical blend between a top-notch St. Emilion and a top-notch Napa Cabernet. The nose is entirely old-world and could be mistaken for Bordeaux (which I did). On the palate though, there is richer fruit and less acidity than Bordeaux usually shows, not unlike a very good Napa Cab. Bing cherry, chocolate, earth and spices on the palate and a long, long finish that has just a trace of the "funk" I love in Italian wine. Showed incredibly young. I had guessed early 2000s on the vintage, so I was off by quite a few years. Really quite a spectacular wine.
For Dessert:
  • 2001 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    Killer Sauternes. I might point out that I guessed this blind as Sauternes, upon confirmation, I correctly guessed 2001 as the vintage, and upon confirmation of that, I correctly guessed Rieussec...I was really lucky last night. As far as the wine is concerned, this is as good as Sauternes gets. Rich and creamy yet light and with plenty of acidity. Lemon custard flavors and a finish that goes an and on. I am embarrassed to say I don't think I quite finished my pour as I had to drive home, but it was as good as any YquemI have had the pleasure of tasting.
As always, thanks to Shannon and David for the hospitality and tremendous food. Next time, our house again.
Posted from CellarTracker

RICK'S WEDDING RECEPTION

Tonight, we were at Ricks place for his wedding reception. Needless to say we brought plenty of wine. We started with a variety of Champagnes, which I won't recount for this post, but they were all delicious. we then went to reds and never looked back.


  • 1989 Faiveley Corton-Clos des Cortons Faiveley - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
    Showed just a little odd at first. With air, it opened up and was unexpectedly in a dark fruit spectrum with smoke and plenty of acid to back up the fruit. Length is there, but I am not finding the focus, delineation and verve I find in the best burgs. Good, but not great for me tonight.

  • 1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    I just really like the style of this wine. Where the Pegau may have lacked some cut and focus, this wine showed it in spades. Horse manure, cure meats, black olive, grilled dried herbs, and a briary, saline component make this an intellectually inspiring wine. It's not very extracted, but there's plenty of fruit and structure, and almost racy acidity. It won't win over lovers of brute force wines, but burg drinkers should relish this. When I was drinking this, all I could think of is what it would be to drink it along a herb and salt crusted rack of lamb. 5 years from peak, at minimum, maybe 10 years would do it even more justice. Needs food, and a long evening to really follow the evolution of this wine.

  • 2003 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    A very, very good bottle of CdP. Best Cdp I've tasted from 2003 thus far. Incredibly powerful on the palate with ample tannin, kirsch and plum fruit, and some creamy, glycerin notes. Meat juice, licorice, and loamy notes. Ever so slightly raisiny on the finish, but it never got hot or flabby. If I had to nitpick, I'd say this lacks a little acidity, and for lovers of the more traditional style of CdP, this will probably never approach the heights of the 2001 or even the 2000. That said, amazing wine, and certainly worth multiples of its release price.

  • 1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Seems way too young still. Almost primal aromas of deep black currant and a lack of teriary notes. Perfectly balanced wine that shows off its fruit, and structure, and virtually screams to be cellared another 10 years. Some tobacco and gravel, this is dominated by its masculine fruit profile. Reminds me a little of the Leoville Barton house style. Very very good wine. Needs time.

  • 1990 M. Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie La Mordorée - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Color was incredibly light red, raspberry-looking. Powerful on the palate though, and it tastes like freshly rendered bacon fat. When drinking this, I can't help but think of a side of bacon. Nose on this was remarkable, and so was the cut and focus of the wines' palate. This particular bottle was perfectly red fruited, although getting ever so slightly thin on the finish, so I thought it was drinking in the perfect window right now. No need to hold...ready to drink and give lots of pleasure. I would love to drink this alongside some good cassoulet.

  • 1997 Dalla Valle Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    My last wine of the evening, but what a showstopper. The fruit was simply perfect. Velvety texture, slick, silky acidity. Amazing sweetness of tannins, but the wine was fully dry. Earth, loam, dirt, dust, complexity, and nuance. Cherry fruit. Very tannic still, but ready to drink at the same time. What a wine...intellectual and keeps you guessing at all times.


Thanks to Rick and Nicole for their generosity and hospitality, and to those who contributed the fantastic wines.


Posted from CellarTracker

Wine Salon - Rhone (Chez Brian 1/11/09)

One of our Austin wine fanatics hosts a monthly wine salon, during which wine afficionados and folks in the wine and food industry come together and taste through the wines of a particular region with the goal to educate ourselves. This month, we tasted through the greater Rhone region. Food was fantastic all around with home made venison and pork sausages, leg of lamb with a ridiculously tasty almond creme sauce, and a tenderloin prepared sous-vide by none other than JohnGL of the food blog The Alcoholian (www.alcoholian.com). On to the wines.


The Whites


  • 2000 Château de Nages Costières-de-Nîmes Cuvée Joseph Torrès - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes
    Not dead yet, but marching steadfast towards its demise. Past its prime and just a lot of stone and mineral. Fruit is thin, acid high. Not fun to drink anymore.

  • 2001 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    I really like this wine. Age has given it some steeliness while retaining the oily texture. Some lemon curd and beeswax on the palate with crushed rocks. Finishes well. Some tasters will prefer this young, but I consider this to have another few years of age-ability on it.

  • 2000 Château Puech-Haut Coteaux du Languedoc Le Blanc Epicurien - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Coteaux du Languedoc
    Dreadful. Oxidized in my opinion. Another taster mentioned this must have been heat damaged. Either way undrinkable. Oak seemed overdone, though.

  • 2006 E. Guigal Condrieu - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
    Excellent young Condrieu. All that Viognier makes for a very soft and fruit forward wine in its youth. That being said, the wine has serious backbone, and I can see how it would last many years. Peaches, tropical fruit, and wet stone on the palate. Very nice.


Languedoc and Gigondas


  • 2002 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Docteur Parcé) Collioure Clos du Moulin - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Collioure
    Weak vintage, and it shows on the thinner than usual midpalate. It does have the typical funk that Dr. Parce's wines often display, and it's definitely very pleasant. Just not really good.

  • 2002 Domaine du Mas Blanc (Docteur Parcé) Collioure Cosprons Levants - France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Collioure
    Again, a pretty weak wine from a weak vintage. But it's definitely good, enjoyable, and fairly priced. Good everyday drinker, but not more. Fiven the Syrah content, it's a bit weak on the palate, but it hold up.

  • 2000 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas
    First red of the night I really liked. Pretty typical provencal grilled/roasted herbs, lavender and garrigue with some meat juices. Finishes great and has a bit of time left before going into decline. Rather liked this a lot, although it's not an intellectually inspiring wine by any means.


Beaucastel and Family


  • 2005 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel - USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles
    My first Tablas Creek, and somewhat of a revelation. Much better than any other California Rhone Ranger I've ever had. This had a lot going for itself. Good fruit and ripeness, ample acidity, and a nice structure underneath. Could probably fool people into believeing it's a Southern Rhone in blind tastings. Only problem is that the acid seems artificial to me...maybe watered down or acidified?

  • 2001 Château de Beaucastel Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet de Beaucastel - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône
    Not bad at all. Fruit has already faded quite a bit, and I think it's time to drink up. But what a nice win for the money. Very good CdR, but not mini-CdP quality in my opinion. Fruit lacks depth and layers for that to apply.

  • 2000 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    One of my top two wines in the tasting. Incredible depth of fruit, balance, elegance, and my favorite truffle notes in Beaucastel from the aging Mourvedre. I could drink this every night. Many years left in the tank to develop.


CdP Big Hitters


  • 1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Unfortunately, this bottle was ever so slightly corked. Drinkable, but the fruit was stripped of its suppleness, and the finish was dulled.

  • 2000 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    This was more like it. Lovely nose of herbs and smoked meats, blackberry fruit, and a nice frame that should support many more years of graceful ageing.

  • 2000 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    Great bottle. From magnum, the freshness of the wine showed over the Beaucastel from the same vintage. Not necessarily better than the Beaucastel, but different. Laurence's CdPs are often less dark and brooding than those of Beaucastel, which I attribute to the generally lower Mourvedre content. That said, it had the usual Pegau funk/brett, with loads of garrigue and the Kirsch liqueur notes I have always liked in Pegau. Great wine, great bottle, My WOTN by a slim margin over the Beaucastel.


Northern Rhone Syrah


  • 1997 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Good wine. I like Chapoutire's Sizeranne and have had some mind boggling bottles, such as the 1990 and 1989. This wasn't as good as those, but it showed fairly well. Pretty open-knit with olive tapenade notes and some meat juices. Blackberry fruit and good freshness. Bit short on the finish, bur very pleasant.

  • 2001 Guy Bernard Côte-Rôtie - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    Good vintage, but pedestrian wine. Nothing wrong with it. but hollow on the mid-palate, shorter than expected on the finish, thin on fruit, and lacking the typicity of black olive and bacon fat I'm looking for. Not worth buying and even less worthy of cellaring. Would be a good quaffer if it were to cost $15/bottle.


Syrah/Viognier Blends


  • 2001 Jean-Michel Gerin Côte-Rôtie Champin le Seigneur - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
    This one was significantly better than the Bernard. Had the black cured olive and bacon fat aromas and flavors. Smoke and beef blood. Decent depth, and solid finish. Should hold up well for many years and improve. Interestingly, Tanzer scored this one quite a bit lower than the Bernard. Different folks, different strokes, I guess.

  • 2003 Kangarilla Road Shiraz - Viognier - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    Not my cup of tea. Too blowsy, but most distractingly, I tasted tons of dried apricot. Some called it apricot jam, but I think it's even sweeter and more cloying than jam. Although the rest of the wine has appeal, and I can see how this could make an interesting pairing with spicy food or thick and juicy BBQ ribs, this just isn't for me.


The Dessert Wines


  • 2006 Domaine des Bernardins Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise
    Weird wine. Had a slightly bitter edge to it, and I thought it didn't go well with the dessert. Not sweet enough to be a dessert wine by my definition, and too sweet to consume as a table wine with other foods than dessert. Just in that exact spot where I thought it's difficult to pair. Not my favorite.

  • 2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Ayguets - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
    I liked this a lot. Sweet and round with nice peach and apricot, sufficient acidity. Was a great match to the tangerine dessert. Definitely the better of the two dessert wines IMO.


At the end of the night, I was apparently feeling too confident, and I bragged about my Creme Brulee. Turns out JohnGL spent a year perfecting his recipe, and let's just say it's way more elaborate than mine. Tonight I'll be making his recipe to see how much better it is than mine (if it isn't, I'll be shocked). I'll report on this event at some other point in time.

2004 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)


It's hard to describe just how good this is. Popped and poured. Purplish garnet/ruby color. The rendered bacon fat and oil cured olive aromas literally jump out of the glass to attack you. Tarry, espresso, licorice, black currant and blackberry in an extremely elegant package. Finishes great and I can see this improving for so many years. The only thing I regret is not owning another case. I read on Squires' Message Board that JL Chave claimed Crozes Hermitage lacks terroir. I think he couldn't be more wrong based on this bottle. Buy all you can.

Braised Venison Dinner - 2/17/2008 (Chez Rick)

A few folks convened at Rick's house to have some braised venison and man was it good. The wines we drank with it were as follows:


With french cheeses


  • N.V. H. Billiot Champagne Cuvée Julie - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne
    My stomach is still getting over being a little upset a few days ago, so the idea of Champagne itself was testing for me. With that said, I really couldn't get into this. Very apple dominated and seemingly large-scaled, this was too much for my stomach's sensibilities last night. I tried and abandoned the glass when it became clear that I wouldn't be able to really enjoy it. Sorry Greg.


With local slow-braised Venison


  • 2005 Château Duhart-Milon - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    My first 2005 and what a nice wine this was. Open for 2 days already and still primary and with a tannic bite on the finish. Great black currant fruit and balance though, and probably a wine that is still reasonable in terms of price for 2005 Bordeaux. I will try to secure some for myself. Very impressive.

  • 2002 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Really nice wine and surprisingly big and rich for it being from the 2002 vintage (generally considered a "wash-out" as far as I know). Really super olive tapenade nose and palate with some nice dried herbs and meaty, smoky iodine flavors. Finishes great, and if someone told me that this was from a weak vintage, I would be hard pressed to believe it. Still very, very primary fruit though and no notes that indicate any significant development. With that said, I think RP has the drinking window wrong. I would guess this needs 2-5 more years of rest and it'll hold for at least a decade past that. Only caution...I like my wines old and tertiary.

  • 1996 Pio Cesare Barbaresco Il Bricco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Most backward bottle of wine I have ever had, especially from Piedmont. When first popped and poured, it showed none of the tertiary notes I expected on the nose. The color of the wine was deep, dark, and rich. On the palate, this wine seemed brawny and serious. It took hours before this lost some of the primary fruit notes and showed some secondary notes. I don't know if it was the storage of this bottle that made it this backward, or if the wine in general is, but I would say that this needed at least 5 and as many as 10 more years before being opened at a reasonable stage of development. Everyone liked it a lot.

  • 2002 Anderson's Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled - USA, California, Napa Valley
    I was skeptical of the Todd's wine, but it was actually pretty good. I'm not a big fan of California Cabernet, but this was very drinkable. I probably wouldn't run out and buy it because of my personal preferences, but I can see how many folks would love this.

  • 1989 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage La Guiraude - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
    Great bottle from my favorite producer of Crozes-Hermitage. Somehow, Graillot manages to make a wonderfully floral, minerally Crozes in virtually every vintage. This one was no exception. Sensational bacon fat, black olive, lilac, violet, and smoky meat flavors wrapped into a superb texture. I can't speak highly enough of this wine, a true achievement in terroir wine making in my opinion. My personal WOTN.


Thanks to Rick and his lovely fiancee for the fantastic evening, food, and hospitality.

Christmas Eve Dinner and Wine


With appetizers


  • N.V. Michel Turgy Champagne Réserve Selection Brut Blanc de Blanc - France, Champagne, Côte des Blancs, Champagne
    I really liked this. Got us started tonight and was a great food wine. Pretty yeast and brioche flavors and crisp apple that I find so common for BdB from Mesnil. Very dry. I almost wondered whether it was zero dosage. I would buy this anytime.

  • N.V. A. Lancelot-Pienne Champagne Brut - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne
    I didn't like this as much as the Turgy. Still a great bottle of Champagne, but the mousse was a little finer and the fruit a little sweeter than the Turgy which showed much drier. Still a solid wine that shows less yeast and brioche than I am used to from BdB. Almost seemed that it had a roasted hazelnut and yellow flowers profile which I don't find commonly in BdB (of course for my palate).

  • N.V. Cameron Hughes Lot 25 Carneros - USA, California, Sonoma County, Carneros
    This wasn't half bad. Clearly not as good as the Champagnes, but certainly not horrible. Good quaffer, especially considering the price.


With cream of wild mushroom soup


  • 2004 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Very good. Dark garnet/ruby color and nice nose of cherry and allspice. Solid texture and mid-palate with good, sappy finish.

  • 2004 Domaine Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny Cuvée des Cigales - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Dark, but completely translucent appearance. Funky nose of leather, tobacco, and red berries. Needed a lot of time to open up, gain weight, and show fruit. Once there, this had a tremendous palate presence and finish. All I am looking for in a young, affordable Burgundy.


With homemade duck breast confit


  • 2002 Château Pradeaux Bandol - France, Provence, Bandol
    Showing even better than the last bottle. Dark plum color with slight bricking at the rim. Sweet fruit and nice leather and truffle flavors. The Provencal sun is almost detectable in the wine. Super soft texture, but good, persistent finish. I would buy this again.


With rolled rib of beef au jus


  • 1995 Réserve de la Comtesse - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    From magnum. Opened hours in advance but not decanted. I thought this may be good, but it was a real shocker just how good. Dark garnet color with killer nose of cigar box and cassis. Suave on the palate with layered fruit, earth, and tobacco/cigar box flavors. Finish was good enough to make this the ultimate food companion and incredibly fun to drink. Would buy again.

  • 2003 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage
    As always very reliable. Bacon fat and black olive tapenade dominate this wine along with nice blackberry. Very consistent profile between the nose and the palate and a great finish. It's worth twice as much as I paid for it and I'd buy it again. Fun wine.

  • 2001 Neal Family Cabernet Sauvignon Second Chance Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Atlas Peak
    I'm not a big fan of California Cab in general, but this was very, very tasty. Lots of dark soft blackcurrant and blackberry fruit with some nice tobacco and tar mixed in. Light on its feet but lots of structure. No heat on the finish and no angularity to this...shows signs of high elevation restrained fruit (in a good way). Drinks incredibly well right now. Was decanted for about an hour before consumption.


With fruit tart and chocolate cake


  • 1996 Château Guiraud - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Drinking in a sweet spot right now. I can't imagine how this will get any better. Great aged flavors and smells of honey, poached pear, and white blossoms. Great acidity. This is really a great performer right now. Would buy again in a heart beat.

  • 2000 Château Tirecul La Gravière Monbazillac - France, Southwest France, Dordogne, Monbazillac
    I still think this is showing a little weird. Very high residual sugar (much higher then the 96 Guiraud) and very low acidity. Viscous like motor oil and massive flavors of honey and flowers. Almost overbearing. Very good, but a tough match to food in my opinion. Would probably not buy again.

2002 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Terroirs (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie)


Being from the disastrous 2002 vintage, this is very mediocre and even thinner than my last bottle. Very watery and diluted. Hard to tell that this is Cote Rotie. Seems more like a cheap Cotes du Rhone. Light color and weak, very acidic on the palate while almost fruitless. Not very good. The saving grace is that I spent only $9 per bottle on auction if I remember correctly. Drink up.

2003 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)


Can't beat this one in the QPR department if you're a Rhone wine lover...Extremely dark garnet to ruby color. Soaring nose of black and green olive tapenade, leather, and blackberry. Really meaty on the palate with a good dose of olives, dried herbs, blackberry, and cassis. Finishes juicy and plump. By no means overblown...I think this will age well for a number of years and develop into something even better. A laughable QPR at the $16-$17 per bottle I picked up the half-case.

2003 Tardieu-Laurent St. Joseph Vieilles Vignes (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph)

Boy, this is oozing dark out of the bottle. Soaring nose of licorice, black olive tapenade, burnt toast, and pine cone. Really nicely textured with fantastic pine needle, earthy, plum, and blackberry flavors and a solid, strongly tannic finish that goes on and on. Remarkably pure and laced with refreshing acidity. Incredible wine especially for the money that will last a very long time. Super QPR alert and a must buy for Northern Rhone fans.

2003 Tardieu-Laurent Crozes-Hermitage Vieilles Vignes (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage) (83 pts)

Translucent ruby red color. Smells overwhelmingly of oak. The palate is better with a good texture and some nice fruit, but I still taste mostly wood. Finish has good length, but this wine is a true oak monster. Very disappointing wine. Maybe it's just in a weird phase, but I wouldn't bet on it. Only $23 at release, so at least not a lot of money was wasted. I will decant overnight in the cellar and see where this is headed by tomorrow. Folks with high oak tolerance may like this wine a lot more than I.

1990 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne (France, Northern Rhône, Hermitage) (93 pts)

Superb bottle. Deep dark color and youthful nose of meat, and dark fruit. Had great silkiness and opulent mouthfeel. Long finish. One of my favorites last night.