3rd Annual Year-End Tasting

As usual around this time of year, 11 of us Austin residents convened at 34th Street Cafe to have our last tasting of 2006 while enjoying the cooking of 23 year old Wunderkind "Raif" (Justin Raiford) at 34th Street Cafe. Although we maybe had less trophy wines than in years past, the evening was one of the best we've ever had in terms of how folks got along with each other and conversed freely and animatedly.

The menu served was:

1) Crispy Oysters, Chipotle Lime Aioli, Poblano and Sweet Onion Pico, on a Homemade Yukon Chip

2) Split Pea Soup with Mint Sherry infusion

3) Rocket Greens and Radicchio with Stilton, Pear, Walnut, and Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette

4) Grilled Salmon, Smoked Mashed Potatoes, Brussels sprouts, Zinfandel-Garlic-Tarragon reduction

5) Chairman's Reserve Beef Tenderloin Medallion, Roasted Root Vegetables, Parsnip Puree, Red Wine Reduction

On to the wines:

Champagne
  • 1985 Charles Heidsieck Champagne Cuvée Charlie - France, Champagne
    Very nice yeasty nose. Had a more golden color and the bubbles were superfine. Tasted very minerally and was extremely elegant. It seemed younger than it really was but drank superbly. Nice finish with some apple notes (92 pts.)
  • N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grand Cuvée - France, Champagne
    Very nice nose of stones and green apple with loads of freshness. Light, pale color. On the palate, the bubbles seemed coarser than the bubbles of the Cuvee Charlie, but the Krug showed me more white flowers and apple on the finish than the Heidsieck and I got a little more minerality. Good stuff, but I think a year or two of extra bottle age would have helped. (90 pts.)
Pinot Noirs
  • 1999 Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    This is the good stuff. Slightly closed on the nose, but the image that comes to mind is that of a coiled up animal ready to strike...the nose is tight, but I could detect hints of many aromas right under the surface. On the palate, a similar feeling abounds. Although the wine tasted extremely well, there are some serious tannins lurking in the background, and this wine is hence years from maturity. Will be a stunner when it's ready. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Cohn - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    I keep saying that the 2002s are KBs best vintage to date for my palate. The wine has mellowed out a lot and despite being served way too warm (I was dragging it with me all day on business) it starts to show some very promising secondary aromas and flavors. Really a spectacular wine that is soft, velvety, has great red berry fruit and some light plum with some leather and a touch of earth on the finish. Finishes dry, which is the way I like it. I still think it is 2-3 years from being at its peak. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Martinelli Pinot Noir Blue Slide Ridge - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    I can see how some folks would really like this wine. It's a huge Pinot that clearly has a lot going on. And despite I did not perceive any heat, this wine is too big and viscous for me to rate it outstanding. I think it is a very good wine though. Flavors remind me a lot of Zinfandel in that I tasted a lot of dark berry and licorice notes with some burnt caramel and candy. Mouthfeel and texture are solid and finish long. Just not my style. Others liked it a lot more. (88 pts.)
Big Reds
  • 1982 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate - USA, California, Napa Valley
    When good California Cab is on form, it can be spectacular, and this bottle proved the point. It was as good a bottle of red wine as one can have from Cali. Great noce of cassis, leather, earth, and truffles. Surprisingly dark color and a plush, balanced, elegant texture and fantastic flavors of tobacco, cherries, currants, and truffle. Long finish. This wine seemed like it could be on a plateau for a very long time. (95 pts.)
  • 1999 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Monster Wine. This was a superb wine despite being from a vintage that didn't excite most folks. Superb nose, but maybe a little closed and shy. Flavors of cassis, cigar box, and an incredible amount of structure. Finish seems to last forever. Really a wine that should be forgotten for at least 10 years. At the release price, it must be a real bargain today. (93 pts.)
  • 2004 Audelssa Estate Winery Summit - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
    Served Blind. I embarrassed myself by saying that I thought it was an old world wine - possibly a Spanish Tempranillo or garagiste right bank Bdx. Smelled and tasted slightly of oak, but not obtrusive. Great fruit and earth tones on the palate and solid finish. I was pleasantly surprised that the wine was from California because it proves that if folks can set their minds to producing wines of this style, they can. At $50, maybe a little expensive for my taste. (90 pts.)
  • 1998 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    To me, this was the stunner of the night. I am a self-proclaimed Rhone fanatic, but this was way better than I thought it would be. The nose was rich with sweet fruit and garrigue, plum, leather and a hint of truffle. Really meaty flavors and some roasted notes of pain grille. Superb mouthfeel and it was lighter on its feet than the description to this point would leave one to believe. Long finish. My Co-WOTN. (96 pts.)
  • 2001 Argiano Solengo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    I wrote a note on this wine a few months ago and nothing much has changed. Still one of the best wines I have tasted this year and incredible just how good this is. Dark red color, great nose with loads of barnyard, floral aspects, and meaty red berry fruit. Sensational mid-palate that is velvety and laced with sexy fruit. Good structure underneath should ensure this can age for a long time, but this is so good right now, I have a hard time seeing how it could get any better. (96 pts.)
  • 2001 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
    By no means is this wine even close to 69 points. It is a solid, well made wine that shows off some very nice aromas and flavors of cassis, and tobacco, with a little hint of dark chocolate. I liked this a lot. (90 pts.)
  • 2001 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
    Definitely a great wine. The nose was so open and effusive, it was almost scary. I enjoyed the pure cassis fruit in this wine and its underlying flavors of chocolate and smoked cardamom. Super long finish. Can't go wrong with this wine, but didn't reach the heights of complexity of the Solengo or VT to me. (93 pts.)
  • 2003 Araujo Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Another shocker. Solid, solid Cab that reminded me a lot of a very young Bordeaux, although the fruit gave away that it was indeed from California. It was a wine that was loaded with elegant mocha, coffee, espresso, and chocolate. Finished strong, great texture, but slightly closed on the nose. Some 03 Cabs I've had have been a little weedy and vegetal, but there was no trace of that in this wine. Clearly recommended drinking, but the price may be a deterrent. (94 pts.)
  • 2001 Vineyard 29 Aida - USA, California, Napa Valley, St. Helena
    Very good wine. I don't remember very well, but I do remember that this wine was way too young and tannic. Great promise though and not over the top in style, which I really liked. (91 pts.)
  • 2002 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra Barossa Valley - Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
    Another big surprise. I figured this would be a huge, viscous, black, blueberryshake of a wine, but nothing could be farther from the truth. It was a huge wine, but despite its size and dark color, the flavor profile reminded me of cranberries and rapsberries laced with smoky notes and grilled herbs. Long finish and round, supple texture. Superb wine and very atypical IMO. (94 pts.)

A great evening with great friends, great food, great wine, and great conversation. On to 2007. A sante!

Steffen

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