2003 Domaine des Rémizières Crozes-Hermitage l'Essential (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)

I preface this review by saying that I have tasted this wine over the course of multiple days with plenty of aeration between tastings, but I simply am not coming to a materially different conclusion that I did when I first tasted it right out of the bottle. This wine may be a decent wine in the context of all wines in the world, but it has nothing to do with Crozes-Hermitage. Absolutely nada. Zero typicity, zero earth, zero terroir, zero pepperiness, zero meatiness that I like so much in my Crozes-Hermitage. This wine is simply the greatest Frankenstein wine I have ever tasted. Overripe, blowsy, sweet with seemingly noticeable residual sugar, dominated by pretentious fruit juice flavors and chalky, chunky, Tums-like texture. In the context on Crozes-Hermitage, this wine is a disaster of epic proportions. I actually think it tastes more like a CdP from an ultra-ripe vintage. This could pass for a non-descript new world Syrah experiment gone wrong. There is so much so wrong with this wine, that I don't even have the space to fully detail my disappointment.

If you like Crozes-Hermitage and own this wine...I recommend selling it if you can. If you can't, then cooking seems to be a great way to get rid of this stuff. And before someone says that the hot vintage must be to blame, allow me to say that I have tasted other Crozes-Hermitage from 2003 that have been very good to legendary such as Jaboulet's Thalabert. And other wines from the Northern Rhone have been inspiring, as well, as evidenced by my encounter with a Guigal 2003 Brune et Blonde. Vintage doesn't explain anything here...this is all winemaking-related. Truly offensive wine to bear the denomination Crozes-Hermitage.

0 comments:

Post a Comment