2000 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

As much as I have been an outspoken dissident of other vintages of this wine, this 2000 Sixtine is really showing well. Although I still think it is rather "modern" in style, the 2000 shows roundness, softness, and red fruit. Earth, aromas and flavors of provencal herb, and red licorice on the palate. Nice length and good finish. No Pegau, but it has typicity and character. I like this one.

2001 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I continue to be disappointed by this wine. It had so much promise in its youth, but time has not been kind to it. It still seems over-extracted and shrill to me. It lacks typicity for me. It, a little like the Usseglio from a few nights before, seems "modern" in style and devoid of the smells and flavors of CdP. No kirsch, no garrigue, no earth, no brett...just tons of blackberry and licorice (the black kind) which seems too one-dimensional. It is definitely still a good wine, but it isn't a great wine or great CdP/example of its appellation. 

2007 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Not bad. Entirely too young, too primary, and too much stuffing. The fruit is too massive to get a good idea of where this wine is headed. My inclination is to speculate that the stuffing of this wine borders on over-extraction, and that this may turn out to be a freak-show when the fruit recedes. It even has slightly bitter tannins. All blackberry bramble. I taste no earth, no garrigue, no red fruit...all about pure dark/black fruit. Very one-dimensional. Again...very drinkable and pleasant right now, but it does not seem destined for greatness. Some folks will laud the "purity of fruit" in this wine, but I think that purity of fruit is all it has...which is not enough for me.

2003 Domaine des Rémizières Crozes-Hermitage l'Essential (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)

I preface this review by saying that I have tasted this wine over the course of multiple days with plenty of aeration between tastings, but I simply am not coming to a materially different conclusion that I did when I first tasted it right out of the bottle. This wine may be a decent wine in the context of all wines in the world, but it has nothing to do with Crozes-Hermitage. Absolutely nada. Zero typicity, zero earth, zero terroir, zero pepperiness, zero meatiness that I like so much in my Crozes-Hermitage. This wine is simply the greatest Frankenstein wine I have ever tasted. Overripe, blowsy, sweet with seemingly noticeable residual sugar, dominated by pretentious fruit juice flavors and chalky, chunky, Tums-like texture. In the context on Crozes-Hermitage, this wine is a disaster of epic proportions. I actually think it tastes more like a CdP from an ultra-ripe vintage. This could pass for a non-descript new world Syrah experiment gone wrong. There is so much so wrong with this wine, that I don't even have the space to fully detail my disappointment.

If you like Crozes-Hermitage and own this wine...I recommend selling it if you can. If you can't, then cooking seems to be a great way to get rid of this stuff. And before someone says that the hot vintage must be to blame, allow me to say that I have tasted other Crozes-Hermitage from 2003 that have been very good to legendary such as Jaboulet's Thalabert. And other wines from the Northern Rhone have been inspiring, as well, as evidenced by my encounter with a Guigal 2003 Brune et Blonde. Vintage doesn't explain anything here...this is all winemaking-related. Truly offensive wine to bear the denomination Crozes-Hermitage.

Dinner Chez Shannon and David

Had dinner at Shannon and David's last night. Appetizers were Asian beef wrapped in Shizo and Radicchio, Baked Clams Portugaise, Tuna Tartare, and Parma Ham Antipasto. For the main course, Shannon and David prepared grille Tri-tip, roasted potatoes and carrots, and grilled yellow Squash. For dessert, there were Madelaines and strawberries in whipped cream. Fantastic food. Now the wines.
The Bubbles:

• 2000 Philipponnat Champagne Cuvée "1522" Grand Cru - France, Champagne
  
  This showed great last night with the various appetizers. I don't know that this is an intellectual Champagne, but it sure is a fun one. Imminently drinkable with a very fine, delicate mousse, toasty and citrus flavors with a medium length finish. It comes across as a serious Champagne though and nicely walks the line between opulence and finesse.
  
• N.V. Vilmart Champagne Rosé Rubis - France, Champagne
  
  After the more feminine Philipponnat, this Champagne roared over the palate with powerful strawberry and raspberry flavors. Long finish and lots of life ahead in this wine. Very nice, and certainly a good match for the heartier appetizers last night. Could be a good match for roast meat without problems.
  

The Reds:

• 2003 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
  
  Upon opening, this wine was surprisingly dark and opaque. Unfortunately, it was also completely shut down. Multiple decants and hours of aeration ended up yielding a really stunning wine. Purchased at release from a reputable merchant and cellared perfectly since, this is very very young. Tremendous nose of red fruit and black olive tapenade. On the palate, there's plenty of blackberry and red fruit with stern tannins and a nice dose of earth, leather, and spice. The tell-tale bacon fat that this bottling is famous for isn't really showing yet. Too young for that to be front an center. That said, this is a terrific bottle of wine that has 10 more years before it's really ready and another decade or even two of life left. Very impressive wine.
  
• 1998 Château Troplong Mondot - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
  
  Just like the Guigal Brune at Blonde, this came out of the bottle completely closed. I would actually describe the wine at first taste as "unyielding", "hard as nails", "massively tannic". and black as night. I purchased this bottle at Chateau Troplong in St. Emilion, I transported it home in the OWC and stored it at 55 degrees since. I was expecting it to need some decanting to be in the window, but even hours of aeration and multiple decants couldn't produce what I was looking for in the end. I will say that this still drank nicely. It had a great degree of typicity, showed of a really nice nose towards the end of the evening, and it was a great match for the grilled steak. It just never showed the sweetness of the fruit and voluptuousness that Troplong Mondot can show when it is singing. Based on my tasting of this bottle, I would say that my remaining bottle is at least 10 years away from being in the earliest part of its drinking window and that it should last another decade or two past that without any problem. This wine is made in an old-school, uncompromising fashion. I will enjoy this one on my 50th birthday.
  
• 1998 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
  
  Very impressive wine. It's a hypothetical blend between a top-notch St. Emilion and a top-notch Napa Cabernet. The nose is entirely old-world and could be mistaken for Bordeaux (which I did). On the palate though, there is richer fruit and less acidity than Bordeaux usually shows, not unlike a very good Napa Cab. Bing cherry, chocolate, earth and spices on the palate and a long, long finish that has just a trace of the "funk" I love in Italian wine. Showed incredibly young. I had guessed early 2000s on the vintage, so I was off by quite a few years. Really quite a spectacular wine.
  

For Dessert:

• 2001 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
  
  Killer Sauternes. I might point out that I guessed this blind as Sauternes, upon confirmation, I correctly guessed 2001 as the vintage, and upon confirmation of that, I correctly guessed Rieussec...I was really lucky last night. As far as the wine is concerned, this is as good as Sauternes gets. Rich and creamy yet light and with plenty of acidity. Lemon custard flavors and a finish that goes an and on. I am embarrassed to say I don't think I quite finished my pour as I had to drive home, but it was as good as any YquemI have had the pleasure of tasting.
  

As always, thanks to Shannon and David for the hospitality and tremendous food. Next time, our house again.
Posted from CellarTracker

2000 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

As anyone who really cellars wine knows, with older wine, the condition of an individual bottle can be as important as the wine itself, the winemaker, and vintage. I say this because of all the bottles of this wine I have had, this was by far the best one. This bottle was hauntingly good CdP. I have had the good fortune of tasting many 100-pointers over the years, and this one was right up there with all the legends I have tasted in the past. As a matter of fact, the wine this most closely reminded me of is the 1990 Pegau. The nose of this wine is perfumed with kirsch and garrigue, and the wine literally roars over the palate with layer upon layer of fruit, earth, and freshness. The fruit is plush and velvety, but at no point was it "too much". Perfect balance from front to finish. The best wine I have had in a long time, and certainly one of the best CdPs I have ever tasted (right up there with 1990 Pegau). I will never forget the taste of this wine.

1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage)

This one isn't going to win you over with its fruit forward-ness. That said, this wine has amazing finesse, elegance, freshness, and yet, it is able to pack impressive intensity of flavor. Silky texture that's more reminiscent of Pinot Noir than Syrah. The nose is soaring out of the glass and olive tapenade, black pepper, dried herbs and blackberry are the primary flavors. There's a sappiness in this wine that I don't traditionally associate with Syrah, especially US Syrah. Finishes tremendously well and just a stunning bottle of wine. Although it is certainly a terrific food wine, this is actually a bottle that one can drink and ponder...an "intellectual wine". The only regret I have is that I don't own a case full of this.

2006 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I might be a cheap date tonight, but this is drinking wonderfully. Cold smoke, dried herbs and meaty aromas. Kirsch liqueur, garrigue, leather and a touch of chocolate powder on the palate. Finishes well. Has many years left in the tank and should become more interesting, still. Just a really nice wine to drink on a Monday night with a mediterranean-inspired dinner.

2003 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)

One of the best wines I've had all year. Yes, it doesn't aspire to the same heights and glory as the recent Bonneau or Lafite, but I bet I could serve this blind to any wine geek and they'd think I am serving them $100/bottle wine. The depth of the fruit in this wine, the freshness, the spiciness, and the perfect mix of velvety and silky textures are simply amazing. And it's even more astounding that I paid $24 for this years ago. I should have bought cases of this and even then, it still wouldn't be enough. If you can buy this well-stored, it's worth picking some up. This Crozes has many years of improvement ahead of it.

2001 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Not nearly as good as the 2000 Sixtine, I thought. Unlike the 2000 which has some nice balance, this wine seems a little off-kilter. The tannins were too pronounced and slightly drying, and although there is a bunch of dark blackberry fruit underneath, I don't think the fruit will outlive the tannins.

2000 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Another 2000 CdP that is beginning to drink well. I thought this was less generous and more closed up than the Lesec, but with some air time, it came around. A brooding, dark, and more modern version of CdP. Grilled meat, black licorice, and camphor. It lacks a little elegance, but it's still a very good wine. I would pair it with some heartier foods. 

2000 Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Galets Blonds Tonneaux (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Very nice wine. It is beginning to show a very traditional aged CdP profile with kirsch liqueur, licorice, ripe berry, leather and earthiness. It actually needed some tie to come around, so I suspect it can last for many more years. This wine over-delivers massively for the $35 I bought it at. Recommended.

2003 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)

This one is beginning to show a little weird. I thought it nearly undrinkable right out of the bottle. Thin and weedy, acidic and angular, I left this in the cellar for a few days, and interestingly enough, the wine has filled out and plushed up. It's showing mostly black berries and black olive tapenade flavors. A tad simple, but drinkable. Yet, I don't see this ageing for too much longer. A wine that I am not sure how to assess its lifespan.

2001 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Drinking perfectly right now. Still shows vibrant cherry fruit and fleur du maquis aromas, but it has also developed a mature color and nose that make the wine seem rounder, earthier, and more elegant. I purchased this for $25, and I should have bought a case at that price.

2000 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Very nice right after opening. It shows its origin with licorice, kirsch, and bramble. Classic CdP. The first day or two, the wine was fresh and lively, and made for a good food wine. After 2 days, it turned very sweet, and port-like as the acidity was waning. It's a wine that needs to be drunk in the next year or so. Won't make really old bones, but it's drinking great right now without any decanting needed

2006 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Terrific wine. This is exactly what CdP should be in my opinion. Red to dark fruit, kirsch liqueur, garrigue, licorice, earth. full and explosive on the mid-palate, but not at all woody, overblown and plush. It's got finesse, elegance, a silky to velvety texture, and amazing finish. Old-school CdP that is showing off its 85% old vine Grenache and skillful wine making. This is one that can go in the cellar for more than a decade or be had with dinner right now. Stunning wine and fans of old-school CdP should buy this for sure. Slightly reminiscent of the 2001 Henri Bonneau CdP I had over the last year or so.

2007 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

My second bottle. Consumed over the course of two nights. Started out like the first one in that it was primary, slightly hot, and very fruit-forward. It did turn out better though after some air by virtue of a night in the cellar. This is all about licorice and blackberry. I wouldn't call this wine subtle, on the contrary, it is an in-your-face style of CdP that goes well with hearty foods like pasta with a thick meat/tomato sauce or spicy BBQ meat. I would not recommend serving it, at this point, with any subtle or delicate foods like fowl, fish, pork, veal, and even some cuts of lamb. Reasonably enjoyable, it delivers a good experience for the $20 I paid for this. That said, it's nowhere near the 94 points that Mr. Parker bestowed on it. 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, remainder Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin, and Vaccarase, all from 70-year-old vines, aged in tank (Grenache) and small barrels and demi-muids.

2003 E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage)

Popped this on a recent week night, and I continue to like this wine. Purchased for less than $20 a few years ago, this delivers multiple times its purchase price in flavor. Fairly classic olive tapenade, blackberry and bacon fat with some earth, bramble and iodine notes on the nose. Paired well with some strongly flavored grilled sausages, and should do well with a variety of foods. The hot 2003 vintage is evident in the easygoing nature of this wine and an abundance of fleshy fruit, but it retains great acidity and stays in perfect balance. Massive QPR although I suspect it would be difficult to find for purchase at this point.

1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage)

This is the kind of wine that excites me. As good as the Bressler was that preceded this, the La Chapelle was a screaming wine. For one thing, it kept evolving in the glass over hours. And I mean that in a good way. It showed different nuances at different stages, but it was always delicious. An amazing amount of blackberry and black currant fruit was perfectly balanced by a beautiful acid structure, and lovely tannins. Meat juices, bacon fat, earth, black olives, black pepper and cold smoke were obvious flavors and aromas. The La Chapelle was very juicy and sappy...not unlike a nice Burgundy in that way. It is worth mentioning that I had the 1990 only last weekend and this bottle (the finest of three or four I have had the privilege of tasting) was almost as good as the 1990 I tasted the weekend prior. Surely, the fact that this bottle was pristine had something to do with it. I wish I had a few more of this one. I can only imagine what this will be like in 5-10 years when it will truly drink at peak.

2000 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Another bottle of this wine and similar results. Following that (slightly damaged) Clos des Papes. this wine was certainly disappointing. It's good, but it lacks excitement. In particular, a very barnyard loaded nose and what I believe to be VA are odd and off-putting. On the palate, the wine actually performs well. Decent fruit, generous structure, but an acid profile that's a tad shrill and disjointed. Again...it's good, but it lacks relative to my favorites. To use an analogy from the movies, I think of it as an Arnold Schwarzenegger of CdPs...trying hard to please with lots of muscle...instead, I would have preferred a CdP that mirrors the class and intellectual stimulation of Sir Anthony Hopkins or Sir Alec Guiness.