2000 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

As much as I have been an outspoken dissident of other vintages of this wine, this 2000 Sixtine is really showing well. Although I still think it is rather "modern" in style, the 2000 shows roundness, softness, and red fruit. Earth, aromas and flavors of provencal herb, and red licorice on the palate. Nice length and good finish. No Pegau, but it has typicity and character. I like this one.

2001 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I continue to be disappointed by this wine. It had so much promise in its youth, but time has not been kind to it. It still seems over-extracted and shrill to me. It lacks typicity for me. It, a little like the Usseglio from a few nights before, seems "modern" in style and devoid of the smells and flavors of CdP. No kirsch, no garrigue, no earth, no brett...just tons of blackberry and licorice (the black kind) which seems too one-dimensional. It is definitely still a good wine, but it isn't a great wine or great CdP/example of its appellation. 

2007 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Not bad. Entirely too young, too primary, and too much stuffing. The fruit is too massive to get a good idea of where this wine is headed. My inclination is to speculate that the stuffing of this wine borders on over-extraction, and that this may turn out to be a freak-show when the fruit recedes. It even has slightly bitter tannins. All blackberry bramble. I taste no earth, no garrigue, no red fruit...all about pure dark/black fruit. Very one-dimensional. Again...very drinkable and pleasant right now, but it does not seem destined for greatness. Some folks will laud the "purity of fruit" in this wine, but I think that purity of fruit is all it has...which is not enough for me.

2000 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

As anyone who really cellars wine knows, with older wine, the condition of an individual bottle can be as important as the wine itself, the winemaker, and vintage. I say this because of all the bottles of this wine I have had, this was by far the best one. This bottle was hauntingly good CdP. I have had the good fortune of tasting many 100-pointers over the years, and this one was right up there with all the legends I have tasted in the past. As a matter of fact, the wine this most closely reminded me of is the 1990 Pegau. The nose of this wine is perfumed with kirsch and garrigue, and the wine literally roars over the palate with layer upon layer of fruit, earth, and freshness. The fruit is plush and velvety, but at no point was it "too much". Perfect balance from front to finish. The best wine I have had in a long time, and certainly one of the best CdPs I have ever tasted (right up there with 1990 Pegau). I will never forget the taste of this wine.

2006 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I might be a cheap date tonight, but this is drinking wonderfully. Cold smoke, dried herbs and meaty aromas. Kirsch liqueur, garrigue, leather and a touch of chocolate powder on the palate. Finishes well. Has many years left in the tank and should become more interesting, still. Just a really nice wine to drink on a Monday night with a mediterranean-inspired dinner.

2001 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Not nearly as good as the 2000 Sixtine, I thought. Unlike the 2000 which has some nice balance, this wine seems a little off-kilter. The tannins were too pronounced and slightly drying, and although there is a bunch of dark blackberry fruit underneath, I don't think the fruit will outlive the tannins.

2000 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Sixtine (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Another 2000 CdP that is beginning to drink well. I thought this was less generous and more closed up than the Lesec, but with some air time, it came around. A brooding, dark, and more modern version of CdP. Grilled meat, black licorice, and camphor. It lacks a little elegance, but it's still a very good wine. I would pair it with some heartier foods. 

2000 Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Galets Blonds Tonneaux (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Very nice wine. It is beginning to show a very traditional aged CdP profile with kirsch liqueur, licorice, ripe berry, leather and earthiness. It actually needed some tie to come around, so I suspect it can last for many more years. This wine over-delivers massively for the $35 I bought it at. Recommended.

Dinner Chez Shannon and David

Last Sunday, we were invited to dinner at our friends Shannon and David's home. After some sparkler to start that I really enjoyed but took no notes on, we graduated to reds with dinner:

• 2003 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
  Had this with dinner at friends' house. A definitely bretty wine. I think for some at the table the brett was simply too much. I on the other hand loved it. Typical CdP in the sense that kirsch and garrigue were present, but the texture was not liqueur-like at all. texturally, this reminded more of Burgundy with a silky mouthfeel and strong finish. Again...to me the brett gave it an extra dimension I liked, but folks sensitive to brett would have hated this bottle. I am happily looking forward to drinking my second bottle.
• 2003 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select - USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District
  Generously opened by our hosts to go with grilled tri-tip. And what a great wine this is. Fantastic nose of cherries, tree bark and dark chocolate. These aromas all carry through to the palate where the wine was velvety and loaded with cheery and blackberry fruit. Maybe a hint of leather. Despite the ample fruit, this came across as balanced and complex and is nothing like many of today's Napa fruit bombs I dislike so much. Awesome wine that disappeared quickly from the decanter. Thanks Shannon and David for this treat.

Thanks to Shannon and David for your generosity, and next time, it'll be my turn to dazzle with quality food and wine.

2001 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Drinking perfectly right now. Still shows vibrant cherry fruit and fleur du maquis aromas, but it has also developed a mature color and nose that make the wine seem rounder, earthier, and more elegant. I purchased this for $25, and I should have bought a case at that price.

2000 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Very nice right after opening. It shows its origin with licorice, kirsch, and bramble. Classic CdP. The first day or two, the wine was fresh and lively, and made for a good food wine. After 2 days, it turned very sweet, and port-like as the acidity was waning. It's a wine that needs to be drunk in the next year or so. Won't make really old bones, but it's drinking great right now without any decanting needed

2006 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Terrific wine. This is exactly what CdP should be in my opinion. Red to dark fruit, kirsch liqueur, garrigue, licorice, earth. full and explosive on the mid-palate, but not at all woody, overblown and plush. It's got finesse, elegance, a silky to velvety texture, and amazing finish. Old-school CdP that is showing off its 85% old vine Grenache and skillful wine making. This is one that can go in the cellar for more than a decade or be had with dinner right now. Stunning wine and fans of old-school CdP should buy this for sure. Slightly reminiscent of the 2001 Henri Bonneau CdP I had over the last year or so.

2007 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

My second bottle. Consumed over the course of two nights. Started out like the first one in that it was primary, slightly hot, and very fruit-forward. It did turn out better though after some air by virtue of a night in the cellar. This is all about licorice and blackberry. I wouldn't call this wine subtle, on the contrary, it is an in-your-face style of CdP that goes well with hearty foods like pasta with a thick meat/tomato sauce or spicy BBQ meat. I would not recommend serving it, at this point, with any subtle or delicate foods like fowl, fish, pork, veal, and even some cuts of lamb. Reasonably enjoyable, it delivers a good experience for the $20 I paid for this. That said, it's nowhere near the 94 points that Mr. Parker bestowed on it. 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, remainder Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin, and Vaccarase, all from 70-year-old vines, aged in tank (Grenache) and small barrels and demi-muids.

2000 Domaine de Cristia Châteauneuf-du-Pape Renaissance (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Another bottle of this wine and similar results. Following that (slightly damaged) Clos des Papes. this wine was certainly disappointing. It's good, but it lacks excitement. In particular, a very barnyard loaded nose and what I believe to be VA are odd and off-putting. On the palate, the wine actually performs well. Decent fruit, generous structure, but an acid profile that's a tad shrill and disjointed. Again...it's good, but it lacks relative to my favorites. To use an analogy from the movies, I think of it as an Arnold Schwarzenegger of CdPs...trying hard to please with lots of muscle...instead, I would have preferred a CdP that mirrors the class and intellectual stimulation of Sir Anthony Hopkins or Sir Alec Guiness.

2000 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Before I say anything about this wine, let me confess that this bottle was slightly heat damaged...and it was all my own fault. When I took delivery of this bottle five years ago, I had the wine shipped when it should not have been...And although the wine didn't get cooked, it did get warm enough to slightly impair this bottle. With that said, this was still a very good bottle of wine that showed lots of typicity with kirsch liqueur, garrigue, and a light chocolate ganache. Unfortunately, the fruit was mildly subdued, which emphasized the relative structure of the wine. I have one more bottle left that was purchased at a different time, and stored/shipped perfectly. I am now really looking forward to tasting that one.

2000 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I knew this should be a treat, but this was even better than I thought it would be. What most impressed me about this wine, was that it managed to deliver ripe fruit while maintaining a stern structure, good freshness, and remaining very dry in style. Lots of dark berry fruit meet earthiness, smoked meat, and a certain gaminess (most likely low level Brett), made this a memorable wine. Consumed with dinner, even my wife liked it and she usually isn't a big fan of CdP. Blend is 85% Grenache and rest Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault. 14.5% alc.

2007 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

I am concerned about this wine. When first opened, the alcohol seemed overpowering both on the nose and on the palate. Acidity was similarly shrill, and so was the tannin structure. Fortunately, the wine mellowed out slightly after 2-3 days in the cellar, but the fruit still seems overly plush and clumsy. Deep, dark color verging on purple, and completely opaque. I have 5 more and they were inexpensive at $19 per bottle, but this bottle was wild, and I'm very unsure where this is headed with some cellar time. Caveat emptor.

2001 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

This is what drinking Chateauneuf du Pape is all about to me. What a phenomenal wine. Red fruited with a soaring, complex nose. Floral, roses, plum, cherry, garrigue and earth. It manages to have perfect balance with alcohol firmly in check, and structure, acid, and fruit being in harmony. While it's nicely red fruited, it is explosive on the palate nonetheless. This is a wine to buy by the case (if it wasn't for the current going rate). Fans of traditional CdP will love this.

2001 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Very nice wine. Still remarkably youthful for a wine of this age. Deep, dark plum red color. Nice nose of kirsch and dried herbs. Shows surprisingly plush cherry and garrigue on the palate with some leather and earth. Solid Finish. I wouldn't call this wine exciting, but it was a great buy at $25 on closeout. 3,300 cases made. A blend of 90% Grenache and the rest Counoise, Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault.

2004 Patrick Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rubis (France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape)

Had this with BBQ ribs tonight and the combination was superb. This wine was generous and held nothing back. Expressive on the nose and palate with lots of kirsch liqueur and dried herbs, along with licorice and a dusting of earth. It's not an overly complex example of CdP, but it drinks incredibly well, especially with the right food.